We got to look at J's dad's wonderful baguettes. Ok, that sounds a bit dirty, (you can stop giggling now). There is something about seeing someone create a thing of beauty, whether it be a Twinkie, a baguette, or variations on a theme like the lemon meringue pies to inspire you. John's photos inspired us so much that when we get back together in two weeks, we are going to make those baguettes. They are from the latest Fine Cooking issue, to which we all three subscribe. The link takes you to a picture and a video of how to shape the loaves, although the recipe is available only through a subscription. An additional subscription even for those of us who pay dearly for a hard copy subscription every year. No, we didn't have our complaint fall on deaf ears at Taunton Publishing or anything, really. Don't get us started.
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Good Charlotte, An Angel
We got to look at J's dad's wonderful baguettes. Ok, that sounds a bit dirty, (you can stop giggling now). There is something about seeing someone create a thing of beauty, whether it be a Twinkie, a baguette, or variations on a theme like the lemon meringue pies to inspire you. John's photos inspired us so much that when we get back together in two weeks, we are going to make those baguettes. They are from the latest Fine Cooking issue, to which we all three subscribe. The link takes you to a picture and a video of how to shape the loaves, although the recipe is available only through a subscription. An additional subscription even for those of us who pay dearly for a hard copy subscription every year. No, we didn't have our complaint fall on deaf ears at Taunton Publishing or anything, really. Don't get us started.
Monday, January 28, 2008
Daring Bakers January 2008 Challenge
This month the Daring Bakers have all made the LMP, recipe from "Wanda's Pie in the Sky" by Wanda Beaver, recipe below. Robb and I diligently followed every instruction, including the bizarre step of boiling water and then letting is "rest" for 5 minutes. Really, if someone can explain that, please enlighten us. If it's to achieve a certain temperature, you'd think that would be the instruction. Maybe it's for using water straight from the river and we need to make sure all the critters are killed? We enjoyed wondering about this.
There were lots of posts on the DB private site (see recent explanation of what the DB group is all about) about difficulty with the crust, trouble with filling, and frustration with meringue as the month went along. Many DBers reported smooth sailing, too. Robb and I wanted to make extra sure that we followed every step, figuring that deviations could cause chaos for our LMP.
Since making the crust in the food processor makes it really easy to add way too much water, we were careful to measure precisely, and we had very cold (frozen) butter, and most importantly we checked the crumbly mixture as we went along. We found that it would hold together before all the water was added. This was also before it pulled from the side of the bowl as suggested in the instruction. For the folks who ended up with shrunken or tough or wet crusts, I wonder if it was due to being overworked or over watered using the food processor method.
The filling, aside from the step about letting the boiled water rest, was the usual cornstarch variety. Robb was the designated stirrer and wondered if the reports of runny filling might have stemmed from getting the filling hot, but not letting it boil. Cornstarch won't do it's job of thickening without coming to a boil. He stirred and stirred and produced a smooth and thick filling with a lovely pale yellow color and sweet lemony flavor. We also made our friend Kathy's recipe of yummy lemon filling so we could compare the two- remember we are binge bakers/cooks after all. Her recipe is the condensed milk version and is a very velvety and creamy filling.
The meringue is the standard meringue pie recipe of egg whites whipped with sugar and then baked so that inevitably the meringue weeps. We did make this version, but we also made our favorite Italian brown sugar meringue. Mix 1 1/2 c C&H brown sugar and 1/2 c water- cook to 246 degrees F. Beat 6 egg whites and 3/4 t cream of tartar until they have just started to increase in volume and drizzle in the sugar syrup. Beat until cool. This is Brigid Callinan's recipe as it was published in Fine Cooking magazine issue #38, and is also available at Fine Cooking on-line for free. The brand of brown sugar does matter- see the very interesting sidebar that accompanies the recipe for a discussion. Back in September, you may remember we wrote about our friend who brought us some of the treasured C&H brand brown sugar all the way back from Oregon so we could experiment with lemon meringue pies. Thanks again Jessica! We enjoyed it just as much this time. It's wonderful stuff. It tastes great, and you don't have to bake it which gets it dried out and weepy! You just have to make sure to get the sugar syrup up to the right temperature. I got impatient one time and didn't get it hot enough and it didn't turn out as voluminous and didn't hold up as well. Lesson learned.
With our two fillings and two meringues, some raspberry sauce, green food coloring, and various shapes of pastry, we had a great time. In addition to the challenge tartlet, we made a couple of slices- just triangles of pastry with a little fold at one end for the crust. We liked those a lot, we felt very clever. With the challenge completed, we went to town and had a lot of fun. It was a lot like decorating easter eggs, each item was slightly different. Click on any of the pics. for a larger view.
challenge tart & "slice"
lemon raspberry sunrise with brown sugar meringue
brown sugar meringue island in a sea of lemon
lemon island in a sea of foamy white meringue
Wanda’s Pie in the Sky by Wanda Beaver, 2002
Makes one 10-inch (25 cm) pie
2 cups (475 mL) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (60 mL) granulated sugar
¼ tsp (1.2 mL) salt
⅓ cup (80 mL) ice water
For the Filling:
1 cup (240 mL) granulated sugar
½ cup (120 mL) cornstarch
5 egg yolks, beaten
¼ cup (60 mL) butter
¾ cup (180 mL) fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon zest
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract
For the Meringue:
½ tsp (2.5 mL) cream of tartar
¼ tsp (1.2 mL) salt
½ tsp (2.5 mL) vanilla extract
¾ cup (180 mL) granulated sugar
For the Crust: Make sure all ingredients are as cold as possible. Using a food processor or pastry cutter and a large bowl, combine the butter, flour, sugar and salt. Process or cut in until the mixture resembles coarse meal and begins to clump together. Sprinkle with water, let rest 30 seconds and then either process very briefly or cut in with about 15 strokes of the pastry cutter, just until the dough begins to stick together and come away from the sides of the bowl. Turn onto a lightly floured work surface and press together to form a disk. Wrap in plastic and chill for at least 20 minutes.
For the Filling: Bring the water to a boil in a large, heavy saucepan. Remove from the heat and let rest 5 minutes. Whisk the sugar and cornstarch together. Add the mixture gradually to the hot water, whisking until completely incorporated.
For the Meringue: Preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC). Using an electric mixer beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar, salt and vanilla extract until soft peaks form. Add the sugar gradually, beating until it forms stiff, glossy peaks. Pile onto the cooled pie, bringing the meringue all the way over to the edge of the crust to seal it completely. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden. Cool on a rack. Serve within 6 hours to avoid a soggy crust.
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Daring Bakers
A while back Robb and I saw that someone we didn't know had posted a comment on the blog. (BTW, to all our "known" readers- post comments!!! Let us know you are reading, liking?, not liking, etc.) Julius at Occasional Baker left us a message and we were so surprised and curious. At first, it felt like a stranger had peeked into our underwear drawers or something. But, then we realized how cool it was that some guy in Vancouver, BC was checking us out. I don't think either of us had considered that someone outside the several dozen friends and family we told about this project would ever be reading our blog. For those of you (Alexis!) who know how private I can be, you can imagine the consideration that now goes into every sentence I type! I'm not saying it makes it better, just that I think about how public it is.
We checked out Julius' blog and found much nicer pictures and design than ours and have been inspired to improve what we're doing. He continues to comment occasionally and we remember to check out his site periodically to see what he has going on, and this is where I discovered the Daring Baker's logo a few months ago and began to investigate. Not being totally connected with this whole food bloggers world, I found it confusing to figure out what the group is. It seems a bit like a secret society even though the organizer I contacted was adamant that it's not, despite the members only blog, and recipe secrecy that is required...
The group was started by a couple of people who decided to make the same recipe individually and then write about it on their blogs. They started with pretzels and moved to biscotti. As their readers learned about these "challenges" they joined in too, and the group grew. You can see how fun this would be, right? Everyone is using the same recipe. Then, due to interpretation, technique, skill, equipment, ingredients, you name it, there are different results. These differences aren't systematic or necessarily that large, but the experimenter in me is definitely drawn to this type of project.
Eventually the group was named and a blog was was created for members where questions and advice gets posted about the month's recipe and other baking things. For those of you (Mom) new to the world of the "interweb", that's what they call an on-line community. There is a lot of encouragement and advice offered. As with many on-line groups, many people just read what everyone else is writing and never post anything themselves, these folks are known as lurkers. Some of you are lurking right now on this blog.
What you, as nonmembers (that is until you join) get to see is the Daring Bakers blogroll, (also under our favorite links) which is a list of each member's first name and a link to his or her website, and there is a little bit of info on the history of the group and how to join. That's really all there is for an outsider to see, hence my puzzlement during my search for info on the group and what they make, and how it works, etc. I thought all I was finding was some kind of index and that surely there must be more. There is more, but that's the secretive part of this non-secret group.
Each month, all the members- there are hundreds now- make the same recipe and then post pictures and write about it on the same day/days of the month. Last month, the recipe was the yule log, and we all posted about it on either Dec 22 or Dec 23. In order to see all the different yule logs that the hundreds of members made, you would use the Daring Bakers blogroll and click on each person's link and look for the post about the yule log. Some of the members have their blogs organized so that it is easy to find the DB posts, others don't. I also discovered that not everyone actually participates every month. Some members are very seasoned bakers- see Helene at Tartlette for example. She has obviously been at it for a while, and we love her work. Others like Julius are very talented and creative and are beautifully sharing their experience of learning how to do new things - see his expert discussion of meringue this month. Members definitely have a very wide range of ability and styles. There were several panicked posts regarding curdled or otherwise failing butter cream for last month's yule log, and there were tons of replies and helpful advice. The mix of experience, questions and support is really cool. It is the DARING bakers after all, and we expect to be pushed beyond our experience and ability and have some failures and need advice, and hopefully learn how to do lots of new things.
I haven't been to all the members sites, I wonder if I ever will get to them all? There were 93 new members in the month that I joined alone, and it just keeps going. This month's post will hit the news stands on January 28th. It's a secret until then...
How's that for suspense?
Good Food, Good Friends, Good Gosh, Let's Eat
Rule #1 Measure twice, cut once. Important in carpentry and equally important in baking. Originally we were going to quadruple the recipe for Chantilly Crepes. Luckily we checked to see if the blender would hold that much. It doesn't. So we only doubled it. Again, as in the past, doubling is so much easier than halving a recipe.
It never occurred to me to use corn starch for anything other than sitting in the cupboard taking up space, waiting to be used in gravies, the occasional Chinese style sauce or lemon meringue pie. Who knew it could be so useful.
I've never made crepes before. I'd always thought I wasn't too good with pancakes, but given Carb Fest '08, and this crepe extravaganza, I realized that I'm pretty good at crepes. Each and every one of the Chantilly Crepes ended up being perfect. I didn't have to throw out the first one, it was great. (A bit too much butter in the pan, but hey, it looked good and really after all the butter cream we've consumed, what's a touch more butter really going to do?) Light and lacy, I did have to fight my desire to create pancake style or Swedish pancake style crepes. While some may have been too thick, they were all firmly in the crepe family.
The Lemon Creme Illusion were the most amazing things. You create the crepes and fill them with the Lemon Creme Illusion (RLB pg 266). It's a Light Italian Meringue and lemon curd. It is a creme that is a bit loose. More like a sauce in its own right. Once filled, the crepes are placed in an oven and baked until they are lightly golden, puffy and way delicious. A light sprinkling of powdered sugar was all that was necessary.
Sadly, none of the Chocolate photos came out. And, by the time we realized this, all of them were gone. The Choclate Velour Crepes with Orange -Apricot Sauce were changed a bit in the making of them. We realized, about half way through the creation of the crepes that neither of us had picked up the apricot preserves. You can almost hear my shrill, panicky tones, "Quick what are we going to do? The people will be arriving soon. Can we send K out to get some? Have someone bring it with them?" Janet, ever the calm one in the kitchen said, "Hey, I brought some of the Raspberry sauce that RLB has had us make for previous recipes." (It is by far our favorite sauce we've made in this whole experiment -- so much so, that we've made it three times.) So, we substituted the raspberries for the Apricot, because both J and I like raspberry and chocolate together, and because that's what we had!
Monday, January 21, 2008
Porcine Delight!!
The magical animal provides so many delicious options.
For Christmas, my dear friend Dan sent me some fresh pork belly (and a rack of spare ribs-to be discussed another time). Some of you are saying, "What do you mean he sent you pork belly for Christmas?!" "Is that a good gift?" "How weird!"
It's not as strange as the Christmas about 15 years ago when my Dad sent 5 lbs. of slab (uncut) bacon and a toothbrush. He had run across some mention of a great kind of bacon and knew I had access to a meat slicer at my restaurant job. Yes, it was a large amount of bacon, but it was very good. Now, the toothbrush is another story. It was actually art, not just a toothbrush, but I did use it as my toothbrush. After opening that box of goodies I feel prepared for anything that comes my way.
We've all seen it. Fresh pork side or belly is the cut that is smoked and made into bacon. Not many of us know how wonderful it is in its unsmoked or uncured form. It is absolutely fantastic and amazing, if you aren't squeemish about fat. The first time (and the only time until now) I had it was 5 years ago at a very memorable dinner at Herbsaint in New Orleans. It was snowy white and mostly fat- so very flavorful although some at the table weren't too keen to eat a forkful and managed to dissect the thin layer of meat out of it. The package that Dan sent looked very much like what I was expecting- he did call first to see if I was interested in having this food project, so I knew it was coming. It came from The Flying Pig Farm in Shushan NY. They raise heritage breeds of hogs, meat supposedly unlike the more common breeds we get at the regular grocery and butcher shops. I say supposedly, because I haven't actually had the meat, at least not a cut like a chop, roast, etc. that I am more familiar with.
So, how the heck do you cook a big slab of tasty fat? You braise it. That was a little bit of a surprise for me. I was initially concerned with ending up with a thin strip of meat in a pool of rendered fat. But the more I thought about it, the more I realized that some fat would render and the connective tissue would soften, just like cooking a shank or other cut suitable for braising. The proof is in the pudding as they say, and it was wonderful.
Rough recipe:
Salt and pepper the belly.
Brown it.
In the same pan brown some mire poix and garlic.
Deglaze with cider/beer/stock.
Season the liquid- I used fennel seeds, thyme, tomatoes, and smoked crushed red pepper.
Add belly back to the pan, liquid should almost top it.
2 hours at 350 should result in a crisp top and tender meat.
To make a tasty sauce, strain and defat the pan liquid and reduce it. I served it with cheesy grits and a mix of black eyed peas, collard greens, and okra in a green pepper sauce, and corn bread.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Kevin's Birthday
I confess that I wasn't planning to make a cake for K, but I was talking to my Mother that Friday afternoon and she said so plainly that he ought to have a birthday cake, that I followed her instruction. I would not describe my mother as particularly opinionated, certainly not bossy or pushy (I know, then where did I get it?). When she puts her foot down, you sit up and take notice. For example, a few months ago we made the cheesecake from the CB and didn't like it. My mother commented to us, and I am quoting her "a cheesecake must have at least 2 1/2 pounds of cream cheese, and sour cream belongs on top, not in it." She would know, having made hundreds of cheesecakes in her time. Really, hundreds. I won't be fooling around with cheesecake recipes that do not meet her criteria. You notice such a strong pronouncement from a woman who is usually pretty laid back. So, when she said in her matter of fact voice that I should make K a birthday cake, I listened.
I ran through the list of K's favorites and took inventory to see what was possible. No cream cheese in the house so I turned to the chocolate. Coconut? Check. Pecans? Check. Sweet Chocolate? No, but why not bittersweet? I made the substitution figuring that this is one cake where less sweetness would probably not be noticed and hoped that the bittersweet wouldn't overpower.
That was a slightly risky move since the intended recipient of this cake likes sweet, but it turned out just fine. He thought the chocolate flavor of the cake was just right and liked the soft and light texture of the cake. The frosting was delicious, plenty!!! sweet and so easy: evaporated milk, egg yolks, coconut, nuts. There's hardly an excuse to use the canned stuff with all the unpronounceable ingredients, it's that easy. (I have been reading one of Michael Pollen's latest books and the ingredients in the food we eat are a little bit more on my mind than normal. Not sure how far I will go in terms of being "green", but I will be able to avoid canned frosting if nothing else.)
Kevin had a happy birthday, and a relaxing birthday weekend. What more can you ask for?
Janet
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
We live in a Topsy Turvy World
I'm just glad that it's not called the topsy turvy pineapple upside down cake. If that were the case, I'd have to come up with a new set of lyrics for "I Am a Model of a Modern Major General" and honestly, I'm really not up to that task.
And, just to get it stuck in your head...here's the first verse:
I am the very model of a modern Major-General,
From Marathon to Waterloo, in order categorical;
I'm very well acquainted, too, with matters mathematical,
I understand equations, both the simple and quadratical,
About binomial theorem I'm teeming with a lot o' news,
With many cheerful facts about the square of the hypotenuse.
and a picture of Henry Litton playing that wonderful part in Gilbert and Sullivan's Pirates of Penzance.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
New Year's Day Carb-Fest 2008
Oh, you say, I can eat more carbs than that. We also made Buttermilk Waffles (pg 103) & Marion Cunningham's Raised Waffles (pg 105). Still not enough carbs you say.
Well, we also made the Best Buckwheat Blini La Tulipe (pg 106). Ha ha, you have fallen. You are no match for our mighty table laden with carbs.
J and I tend to binge bake I've noticed. So, alas, has my waist. New Year's resolution is to hit the gym twice a week. I've put on 10 pounds since we started this blog. Ok, that's not really true. Sadly I put on 10 lbs, but it was just since November 1.
Once we got our rhythm, we were able to bang them out quite efficiently. Initially, the pancake recipes didn't really work the way that we were used to. There was a lot of cracking and softness to them that we didn't expect. This was rectified by turning up the heat and cutting back on the blueberries. I am the culprit who over stuffed the pancakes with blueberries. But really 6 berries as Rose prescribes?! It just isn't right.
This little falter, caused us to mistime the serving of our fellow guests. This iritated us quite a bit, and it left M a bit hungry, but at 12:30 we all sat down for our brunch. Sadly, the food was to begin at 11:00 ish. Even I can't accept an hour and a half as "ISH". But once the food was served and the champagne was poured, I don't think a soul really minded.
The both types of waffles were a bit limp (a problem with many waffles) when we finished them in the waffle iron. J had a great idea -- as is usual -- let's toast them she said. The toasting helped the Buttermilk waffles so much that our guests raved about them. The Raised Waffles weren't as well received, although the toasting did help them.
Often I ask J if we'd have liked this recipe better if we weren't trying to compare it to our other recipes on the table. We've never come up with a simple answer for that. On some things, yes, they pale only in comparison. In other things, they just weren't our cup of tea -- can anyone say chestnut cake? (I find it especially difficult to assess an item if I already have - get ready for me to sound really full of myself- a perfected recipe. For waffles, I worked for several years to find and create exactly what I want. It's not like it happened overnight, to be sure! I tried many recipes and experimented and added and subtracted and adjusted and can now reliably make a waffle I really like. It's crisp on the outside, fluffy and tasty on the inside. And, for pancakes, you just can't beat the recipe on the bag of Aunt Jemima's self-rising flour. That I wasn't dazzled by the CB recipes doesn't surprise me, but I didn't expect to be disappointed. I really was unimpressed by the pancakes- too thin, rubbery texture, no buttermilk tang, no crumb for butter to melt into. Do they suffer by comparison? Absolutely. But, that might be because they're not so terrific. -J.)
Here is what happens when you've sat at a table full of friends and had a bit too much champagne and there are only a few bits and pieces left on plates....
You find yourself about ready to eat a Jimmy Dean sausage pattie, topped with sour cream, chopped green onions and a perfectly crisp blini. And really, it doesn't get any better than that. Well, the smoked salmon on the blini with sour cream might be a match. The blini, we all agreed were quite tasty, and cooked without difficulty. While we don't exactly run in the circles where caviar is served as the norm, we could adopt these blini as our standard, if we had need of such a thing.
Everything's Bake in 2008
Bake through
Robb